An Intricate Art

The art of making piupius (or ceremonial skirt for Maori women) is still being carried on. Mrs Emily Schuster, who is supervisor of women's handcrafts at the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute at Rotorua, conducted a school at the Whakato Marae recently to pass on this ancient art. With a number of women learning the craft their knowledge will be passed on to keep the art alive.

The piupiu is made from flax which undergoes a number of processes before ending up in the skirt form.

The piupiu itself seems almost alive as it swings with the rhythm of an action song.

Mrs Arapera Harrison measures off the pattern on strips of flax.

Mrs Margaret Nepe uses a sharp mussel shell to strip away unwanted leaf surface. This exposes the flax fibre which will eventually dye a different colour from the green leaf surface.

Mrs Mate Ratapu finishes off the waist binding to complete the piupiu shape. Note that the flax has not yet assumed its rolled finish.

Mrs Harrison and Mrs Ratapu remove the piupius from the mordant. This is contrary to normal procedure as, usually, dyeing takes place before steeping in the mordant, instead of after.

After soaking in the mud dye for the prescribed time the piupius are fixed in boiling water.

On drying out the piupiu strands take up their customary rolled shape.

Mrs Schuster with 90-year-old Mrs Raupare Werahiko who has been making piupius for more years than she cares to remember.

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The Gisborne Photo News

No 252 : June 18, 1975

An Intricate Art